Looking for two weeks camp hosting in Southern Tasmania?
Happy to volunteer as a campsite host at Cockle Creek?
Like the idea of free accommodation in return for working with the Parks and Wildlife Service?
The Parks and Wildlife Service in Tasmania are seeking Campground Hosts for two week stints at Cockle Creek in Southern Tasmania.
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Cockle Creek is well known by bushwalkers who are completing (or starting) the South Coast Track. This tiny "village" is 2 hours drive from Hobart and is the furthest point you can drive south in Australia.
This is a great way to have a free "holiday" and to experience some of Tasmania's beautiful wilderness areas. For example, it is a relatively easy walk into the start of the South Coast Track to visit spots such as Coal Bluff or even further on to South Cape Rivulet. It would also be a bit of fun being there to meet hikers who had finished the South Coast Track and check out their condition after this 6- 10 day walk!
Larry Hamilton, in his excellent series on the South Coast Track, shared a couple of pictures with us.
The beach at Cockle Creek
The Cockle Creek bridge
As you can see, it is a very pretty place and quite isolated. Looks like a great spot for a couple of weeks in Tasmania!
This is the link to the full information provided by Parks and Wildlife Service in Tasmania (including contact details of where to apply)
Related Posts
The South Coast Track - Solo Winter Trip report by Larry Hamilton - Part One
South Coast Track - Part Two by Larry Hamilton - Ironbound Ranges and Leeches
South Coast Track - Part Three by Larry Hamilton - Surprise Bay to Cockle Creek
Larry's Port Davey Trip Report- great reading
Gear List for Wilderness Bushwalking Trip - Larry Hamilton's excellent gear list
Stuck between Louisa and Faraway Creeks - Our adventure on the South Coast Track
Hiking the South Coast Track - our first (and last time)
Camp Hosting? Cockle Creek - Tasmania - Volunteer Opportunities for summer 2009/10
Best hiking gear for a multi day trip in Tasmania? A retrospective review
What is the best hiking gear for a wilderness adventure?
What gear do I need for a multi-day hike?
What is the best equipment (stove, coat, poncho, overpants, sleeping mat) for several days hiking?
In this guest post , Larry Hamilton (self confessed gear junkie) analyses his gear selection for a recent 10 day hike on Tasmania's South Coast Track. It is a follow up of a previous report about his gear for the Port Davey Track and is Part one of a two part "gear fest"
Introduction (and apology)
These gear notes have been included against the advice of my wife who believes it just indicates a tendency towards nerdishness about equipment, extremely embarrassing materialism and makes me look like an overgrown boy scout.
So if you aren't into gear choices stop reading now and if you are, don't let your partner read it.
Their chortles and guffaws are likely to be quite off putting!
I admit to being a bit of a gear freak and I enjoy the preparation for walks because it means a planning phase which holds its own pleasures and which provides an opportunity to think anew about what I like and what I need. This year for the South Coast Track I planned to take food for fourteen days and at just under a kilo of food per day that meant a fair proportion of my pack weight would be of food. As a result I planned to pare the rest of my gear down as much as I could.
Jacket
From my experiences on the Port Davey Track last year in some appalling weather I ditched my goretex jacket and pants and a pair of goretex overmits. I replaced the jacket with a Montane Featherlite H2O jacket with substantially less bulk and weight.
I used this jacket and liked it but the DRW properties were quickly eroded in areas where my pack rubbed on the jacket such as over my shoulders where the straps rubbed and across my shoulders and across the small of my back. Because I predominantly had the jacket as a windproof barrier I wasn't too worried but I'll experiment in proofing the jacket again with a slightly different DRW treatment.
I believe that you inevitably end up getting pretty wet anyway from the bush, from wading through creeks and from wicking up sleeves, and down through neck openings so I expect to get wet on walks and am not concerned primarily about the level of waterproofness. So the only goretex items I took on this trip were my gaiters.
Overpants
I replaced my goretex overpants with some Golite Whim pants again with a substantial reduction in both weight and bulk.
I didn't end up using the overpants which I took mainly as a windproof barrier for my legs rather than for their waterproofness but if the weather had been like it was last year they would have had substantial use.
I live in regional Western Australia and don't have an opportunity to see and try out exotic gear so I ordered a large pair over the phone and they were enormous on me so my sartorial elegance was really suspect with them on but with the advantage that I could get them on over my boots. I will probably purchase a smaller pair before my next walk. Despite the fact that they stayed in my pack for the trip I'd take them with me again.
Overmits
I gave up on overmits and simply carried two sets of gloves; a fairly light pair of windstopper gloves to walk with and an pair of fleece gloves to use with a fleece beanie and my set of dry gear in camp.
It turned out not to be sufficiently cold enough to wear either pair and so these remained unused but I was pleased to carry them.
In Addition:
I took a pair of thermals for everyday use and used them only in camp. My recorded temperatures inside the tent on waking (at around 5.30am most mornings) varied from a brisk 4 degrees Celsius to a balmy 13 degrees Celsius.
Poncho
On a whim I took also a tarp/poncho as I'd read positive reports about the use of these. I actually tried to use this as a poncho on the beach trek to New River and it took me half an hour of dancing around in drizzle along the beach trying to put it on. Stupidly I'd only tried this out at home with my wife to help me get it on.
I defy anyone on their own to successfully and quickly get into a poncho with a full pack in a reasonable breeze.
I must have looked a sight trying various ways to get it over my full (and fairly high) pack in a balanced way. I tried to put it over my head and then manouver it over my pack, fighting the wind's efforts to blow it back. I used one of my walking poles to try to get it in place and only managed to look stupid. I put it over my pack and then tried to get under everything, and put my pack on with the poncho already in place but only succeeded in getting tangled up. I eventually got it mostly sorted out albeit getting pretty wet in the process and it worked for the next couple of kilometres until I got to the boat crossing where I needed to take it off anyway.
I think that ponchos are only useful when walking with another person who can assist in arranging the poncho across the pack so that it drapes as intended.
On the one day that I holed up from some heavy rain I used the poncho as an additional tarp which gave me some added scope for movement outside of my tent in the rain but I wouldn't take it again. If I wanted additional tarp space (a luxury), I'd take a spinnaker tarp instead. So the poncho will be consigned to the growing pile of gear that I've tried and discarded.
Sleeping Mat
I ditched my self inflating mat (three quarter length) for a Thermarest Z Lite closed cell foam mat for a substantial savings in weight but an increase in bulk. My experimentation with this before starting the walk had revealed that my hips (I'm a side sleeper) compressed the foam enough to mean the insulation was insufficient and I got cold.
I always previously carried a small piece of closed cell foam as a seat in camp and as a foot pad for my three quarter length self inflating mat and I found that this was usefully employed under the Z lite in my hip region to provide the necessary insulation.
I disliked the added bulk of the Z lite inside my pack and found the lack of comfort when sleeping a frustration.
Sleeping mats are always a compromise but I've resolved to shell out for an Exped Downmat for winter trips in the future. I'll endure the additional weight in return for greater insulation and comfort.
Stove
I opted to change my stove system from my Triad titanium burner used last year and go for more convenience but extra weight by purchasing a Clickstand and using a standard Trangia burner.
I went for the heavier Trangia burner for two reasons. Firstly it enabled me to carry unused fuel in the burner as the cap has an o-ring. The second reason is because it has a simmer ring. I'm not sure why I think that this is an advantage because I never simmer and didn't on this trip but it came with me and was used only as a snuffer for the burner.
I like the Clickstand but was careful about packing it because I didn't want to bend the frame and render it useless. So I had to take a bit more care with packing than I'm used to. I normally get pretty violent in ramming gear into small spaces in my pack, particularly at the beginning of a trip when space is at a premium.
Pots
My MSR titanium pot came again with its home made pot cosy. I also took my favourite double-wall titanium mug rather than a lighter single wall one I sometimes use. Some luxury is worth it.
Fuel
I took 1600ml of metho for my stove in a 1 litre MSR fuel bottle and a 600ml coke bottle. I always get too nervous about fuel use and ended up using just on a litre for the eleven days.
Additional Gear
This year I took a small pair of binoculars which I thought would be useful and provide me with another dimension of interest along the coast. I ended up using these very little and mostly only because they were there and because I didn't want to take them back unused. I wouldn't bother with the weight again on a walk.
Leeches
I have a thing about leeches and some interesting experiences with them. During the year I engaged in some research and wanted to experiment on this trip with Pyrethrin (or Permethrin its synthetic equivalent) as it was reported to be very effective against leeches.
I'd considered DEET but had rejected that as being noxious to me and not as effective as Pyrethrin.
As I normally do I took salt but this time before starting I rinsed my walking pants, socks and gaiters in Permethrin shampoo intended for pets. I also took some Pyrethrin horse insecticide in a small spray bottle. I doubt that the shampoo wash made much of a difference as the constant soaking of my clothes would probably have rendered the wash useless after a short time.
This trip I didn't have much of a problem with leeches but the few I had a chance of having a go at shrivelled up with a touch of the Pyrethrin spray and unlike DEET, Pyrethrin doesn't affect fabric or plastics. So I'd take that again and leave the salt behind. Salt is always a problem because of its need for waterproof storage.
Many thanks to Larry for his excellent write up and review of his gear. We will post part two in the next few days where the rest of this self confessed "gear junkies" equipment for the trip is reviewed.
Related Posts
The South Coast Track - Solo Winter Trip report by Larry Hamilton - Part One
South Coast Track - Part Two by Larry Hamilton - Ironbound Ranges and Leeches
South Coast Track - Part Three by Larry Hamilton - Surprise Bay to Cockle Creek
Larry's Port Davey Trip Report- great reading
Gear List for Wilderness Bushwalking Trip - Larry Hamilton's excellent gear list
Stuck between Louisa and Faraway Creeks - Our adventure on the South Coast Track
Hiking the South Coast Track - our first (and last time)
The Overland Track - Cradle Mountain to Lake St Clair - a nice slow trip
Spring hiking in Tasmania? Will there be snow or just rain?
Hiking the Overland Track from Cradle Mountain to Lake St Clair?
A leisurely bushwalk on a World Heritage "Top 10 Hikes in the World"
We have just returned from a seven day, six night trip on the Overland Track in Tasmania. There were four of us in the party with the plan to take our time and enjoy any good spring weather we might get along the way. With typical Tasmanian weather variability we were blessed with some great sunny days and also snow, sleet and rain in various forms. All this was expected and we were well prepared for any conditions.
Why hike the Overland Track again you may ask? Because we LOVE it!
In this post we will just make a few comments and observations about the trip, as there are many other posts on Our Hiking Blog about hiking the Overland Track. Check out the links to them at the bottom of the page.
Heading up the Horse Track as an alternative to the big grunt up Marions. Perfect for someone with barthmophobia. It is still a bit of a "climb" but over a longer distance. Every time we do it it seems to get harder....
We were hoping for snow, in fact a lot of snow! It had snowed heavily a couple of weeks before and while there was some on the Cradle Plateau it was very slushy and soft. Above is Sue heading across the Horse "Track" towards the intersection with the Overland Track proper (where it intersects just before Kitchen Hut)
We had planned to take snow shoes (Yowies) but Frank ended up the only person carrying them as the snow was patchy and not forecast for the duration of the trip. They were OK in this section but because the snow was so soft and slushy they broke through to ground several times and it was quite difficult to get them out of the snow.
Heading across to Kitchen Hut (with Cradle Mountain in the background). The snow was particularly soft here as there was a lot of water running across the ground (under the snow)
The Overland Track was easy to find in the snow. We had fantastic weather on day one.
We left the Ronney Creek car park (the official start of the Overland Track) at 1pm. Slow as ever, and hindered by the snow, we reached Waterfall valley Hut at 7pm. Sunset (above from just before the Barn Bluff turnoff) was at 6:07 so we had quite a bit of walking with headlights in the dark.
Cooking dinner at Windemere Hut we were surprised to be the only party in the hut that night. We were lucky enough to get ABC radio reception here and were able to listen to the AFL football and hear our team win the game and make the Grand Final. We also had Pelion and Kia Ora huts to ourselves which was surprising (but nice for a change, we have been at Pelion Hut when it was at it's capacity of 60 people)
Of seven days hiking, we had two totally fine days. The rest was a variety of "weather". Pictured above is John heading down the track. Tasmania has had a significant amount of winter and spring rain and the track was quite wet in places.
At Pelion Gap and the Mt Ossa turnoff. That evening we discovered we had red faces from sunburn! Colin had left Pelion Hut early hoping to climb Mt Ossa. When he arrived it was covered in cloud and after waiting an hour decided to head on to Kia Ora. As he says, no use climbing a mountain if you can't see the view. We arrive in sunshine and a cloud free Ossa!
Sue heading down Pelion Gap towards Kia Ora Hut. Nice bit of snow here but not enough for snow shoes.
It was a "bit chilly" on a couple of days. Pictured above is Frank feeling the cold.
We had never been into Ferguson Falls (which are between Kia Ora and Bert Nichols Hut) and were lucky to have chosen a great time of the year as it was PUMPING! We could not believe the roar of the water nor the sheer volume coming over the waterfall. It was a great side trip.
Above is a great view of the Acropolis from Bert Nichols Hut. The new hut is an interesting addition to the Overland Track. There is a very long, funny and interesting post on Bushwalk Tasmania about the Hut development. (some people love it, others hate it- we can see both sides)
We completed the walk at Echo Point Hut as the jetty at Narcissus was under a metre of water due to the high level of Lake St Clair.
In conclusion, a few reflections on this walk may be useful for anyone planning a spring bushwalk on the Overland Track.
- the snow was wet and really soft. Travel time was slow and snow shoes unhelpful
- temperatures were never below freezing so the tracks were slushy and wet rather than icy as we had in our Winter Overland Track
- We took it easy and just went from hut to hut. It made for a very relaxing trip, leaving late (between 9 and 10 am) each day and arriving into the Hut most days between 2 and 4 pm. It was a great way to "do" the track.
- We saw 22 people in total for the whole seven days (and saw no one for 3 of the days). If you are experienced, well prepared and not too ambitious it may be a good time of the year to hike the Overland Track without the seasonal "crowds"
- we allowed 7 nights and 8 days in case the weather held us up (or if we wanted a side trip). Snow is very common in September and there had been a large dump two weeks before our trip.
- we ended coming out "early" and had a night at the Derwent Bridge Hotel. It was great and we really enjoyed the food and hospitality.
Related Posts
How to hike the Overland Track - our eBook on getting the trip done - 2009/10 update
Backpacking the Overland Track - a view from the States
Planning food for a multiday hike
Various Overland Track posts
Bibbulmun Track - Advice and tips on this long distance hike
What is the best section of the Bibbulman Track to hike?
Do you need a tent?
What is the water supply like on this famous 1000km adventure from Kalamunda, a suburb in the hills on the outskirts of Perth, to the historic town of Albany on the south coast of Australia?
We received an email from Bruce asking several questions about the Bibbulman Track, and in this post, we share Dave Tomlinson's answers with other readers of "Our Hiking Blog".
Regular readers will remember Dave's excellent reports on the Bibbulman Track and The Great South West Walk.
We have split Bruce's email into questions and then Dave's answers.
My name is Bruce Bxxx and I was thinking about doing a hike on the Bibbulmun for the full month of December 2009. I am an experienced walker (Appalachian Trail Thru Hiker, trails in Tasmania, Argentina, Chile, Ireland, Scotland), though had a couple of questions I was wondering if I might bother you with.
Q: I understand Dec can be very hot on the Track...will I have problems finding water? I realize the shelters' tanks should probably have some. But was wondering I might endure some very dry spells with empty tanks. I'll probably start the morning off with 2 full litres in my pack.
A: December is summer time in Western Australia but it may not have the heat of February when I was on the track.
Dave's water carrier - note the tannin stain - no problems to drink
Please be assured that you'll have no problem with water.
The CALM (Conservation and Land Management) staff do a wonderful job maintaining the facilities and checking that tanks have adequate water. They are also supported by an army of volunteers along the entire track length. During my hike, a couple of the tanks had low water levels with a request to be conservative with it but it was never a problem. Because you can depend on water at every shelter only carry what you need to drink.
I consistently arrived at each campsite with only about 100m left in my bottle.
Carrying any more is pointless. Through the top of the northern section you can 'double-hut', which means you can refill halfway through the day and carry even less.
Q: If I walked from 2 Dec to 29 Dec...what would you recommend as being the best part? North to Mid? Mid to North? South to Mid or Mid to South? I probably only have enough time for 350 or so miles.
The question of which part to hike is a difficult one because it depends on the individual. Each section offers it's unique beauty and tranquility. There are a few highlights though and the most popular section for many is the area around Walpole because of the huge and iconic karri trees.
Karri Tree
The southern section has some magnificent coastal scenery although the hiking is more difficult in parts because of the sand dunes. There are some beautiful areas of Jarrah forest in the northern section and I loved the rugged Pingerup Plains.
To be honest, I really can't answer this question because it depends on what you prefer. I suggest you have a look at the track photos that I've uploaded onto the internet and see what inspires you. The link is: here to all my pictures .
Q: I'll probably carry a 3 lb tent.
A: At the time I hiked the track there was absolutely no need for a tent.
Frankland River campsite
This could well be different in spring time when many people hike to see the wild flowers. However, with December being the beginning of summer I would suggest you don't need it. So, unless you plan to camp between the shelters (where you won't have water)
I suggest you leave it behind. The shelters comfortably sleep at least 8 people.
Q: Could I get by with a sleeping bag rated to 10 degrees C or 45 degrees Farenheit?
A: The sleeping bag is an interesting question because I don't trust their ratings. Mine was rated at 5C and was only just adequate, especially in the southern section where it's cooler.
So, to be honest I don't think a bag rated at 10C would be warm enough.
For your comfort and peace of mind I'd suggest 5 deg C or even 0 deg C. Remember that the shelters are not fully enclosed. They are three-sided and although they are beautifully constructed and provide shelter from the prevailing winds, it can still be chilly at night.
Q: Any problems finding gas cannisters for stove (iso butyl mix)?
A: Providing your stove is a standard model, you won't have any problem finding gas canisters.
Each town that you pass through will have them in either the supermarket, general store or petrol station. I used the butane canisters with the threaded connection. Depending on the time of year and the section of track you are in, you may be able to use the fireplaces to cook but fire bans are often in place during the summer period.
Q: Think I would need a fleece?
A: Dave did not address this question but I would, note answer to sleeping bag question, it can get cold at night! (Frank)
There is also another great post by Dave on the blog titled - Bibbulman Track planning - it is well worth reading in conjunction with this post.
Related Posts:
Bibbulmun Track - Part One - A very long hike
Bibbulmun Track - Part Two - The Southern Section
The Official Site:
Bibbulmun Track - Trip Planning
Many thanks to Dave Tomlinson for his fantastic words and pictures for this post.
Family backpacking or bushwalking - planning your trip
Planning on a hiking trip with your children?
Looking for information on how to bushwalk or backpack with your family?
What is the best way to go multiday hiking with your kids?
Damian and Renee have a fantastic blog called Adventure in progress which focuses on "Encouraging families to get outdoors and experience adventure".
Frank got lost in reading some of the terrific posts and enjoying Renee's wonderful photography.
This family , with three young children, just completed their first family backpacking (we call it bushwalking in Australia) trip to Gentian Pond on the Appalachian Trail. Damian just posted a great yarn titled: Gentian Pond Backpacking - Successes and Failures
It is highly recommended reading as Damian has analysed the different gear that worked (was a Success) and did not work (Failed) when hiking with children. Great reading and very informative.
(btw -Gentian Pond Campsite is on the Mahoosuc Trail section of the Appalachian Trail in New Hampshire, located 5 miles or so from the Maine border)
Related Posts
Hiking Gear - the basics
The Spirituality of Bushwalking - one man's reflections
Australian Alps Walking Track - when your kids go it alone!
Tasmania Hiking - we drag out the young people!
What basic gear do you need to get started multiday hiking?
Hiking the South Coast Track in Tasmania - Surprise Bay to Cockle Creek
In this post, Larry Hamilton continues his extensive trip report on the South Coast Track in Southern Tasmania.
This post commences on Day Eight where Larry had overnighted at Surprise Bay, (one of our favourite places on the SCT) and continues to the end of the Track at Cockle Creek.
Day Eight 26 June
The rain continued heavily overnight and was steadily falling in the morning so I took an enforced rest day. Because of the previous rest days I got a little stir crazy and would have liked to keep moving but it wouldn't have been pleasant walking. I had a brief respite from the rain in the afternoon and ventured out with my camera. The creek I crossed yesterday which was over waist deep was impressively high and I got a photo of it which unfortunately didn't do it justice. Had I been crossing it today it would have been an exciting swim.
Surprise Bay from the campsite
Day Nine 27 June
It stopped raining about 1am and apart from the occasional sprinkle was pretty dry. The wind had also dropped off so the condensation issues in the tent were pretty severe. It is a short hop to Granite Beach with the South Cape Range thereafter so in clearing weather and showers I walked over the range and down to Granite Beach. Granite Beach turned out to be the highlight of my trip probably because I arrived with rainbows and three quite big waterfalls pouring into a very pretty bay. I also liked the climb up beside the waterfall and the interesting location of the campsite. The rain showers gradually decreased and stopped late in the afternoon enabling me to dry some of my gear out and really appreciate just what a pretty spot it is. I'd go back there in a flash.
Tent and tarp setup at Granite Beach campsite
Granite Beach from the western campsite
Day Ten 28 June
I started early and was walking in pretty dim light at 7.30am as I anticipated a long day over South Cape Range. The weather had cleared and I had a bright, sunny and cool day. As predicted it was a muddy day and I sloshed over the range getting dirtier and dirtier. Initially the descent is tough with long drops and lots of exposed and slippery tree roots. Because of the rain, the track was in many places the river course and I got pretty wet. The later descent from the range when I broke out of the forest is a really nice walk and because I had made good time over the range I ended up whistling happily along a nice track through light coastal forest down towards South Cape Rivulet. I'd had a good day which I didn't really expect, given the tales I'd heard about South Cape Range.
Looking back at the ocean from the South Cape Range
I ended the day by swimming South Cape Rivulet which was still big from the rain on the previous days. The camp on the west side of the rivulet is a nice spot in a unique environment. I set up camp and got into dry gear. Towards the evening clouds gathered in the west and it looked as if rain was on the way again as I prepared my evening meal.
South Cape Rivulet
Day Eleven 29 June
I had some rain showers overnight but the day dawned clear with light and fluffy clouds which cleared during the day. It wasn't too pleasant putting on completely saturated clothes when it was only six degrees in the morning but it didn't take long to warm up. The walk to Cockle Creek is a pleasant one and has some great views, some beautiful beaches and some interesting landforms at Coal Bluff.
The author - Larry Knight
It is a really enjoyable way to end the walk and I felt a bit ambivalent at the finish. I still had food and fuel in my pack but had to stop. I was pleased to be at the end but also disappointed that there was not more to go.
The beach - Cockle Creek
I arrived at Cockle Creek at midday and after phoning Dover for the pickup taxi had plenty of time to change into clean clothes, phone my wife and poke around Cockle Creek taking photos.
Bridge over Cockle Creek
I was lucky with the weather and had taken it easy. The walk was everything I'd expected and certainly as good as it is reported to be. I'd happily do the walk again but am setting my sights on seeing some of South West Cape and of the side bays, now that I've seen the main track. I enjoyed having the South West Track to myself and didn't see a soul for the eleven days. That for me adds to the sense of wilderness. I'd certainly recommend the walk as one to do. The track is well marked and navigation isn't an issue. The muddiest plains have boardwalks and there is sufficient challenge in the walk to make it exciting and interesting. But it is the environment and the scenery that really make it worth doing.
Related Posts
The South Coast Track - Solo Winter Trip report by Larry Hamilton - Part One
South Coast Track - Part Two by Larry Hamilton - Ironbound Ranges and Leeches
Larry's Port Davey Trip Report- great reading
Gear List for Wilderness Bushwalking Trip - Larry Hamilton's excellent gear list
Stuck between Louisa and Faraway Creeks - Our adventure on the South Coast Track
Hiking the South Coast Track - our first (and last time)
Overland Track - Winter hike - a photographers paradise
There are photographs of the Tasmanian Wilderness and then there are beautiful images.
Pieces of art that reflect the beauty of the area and tell a story that excites you and makes you want to be there!
Ice on duck boarding - Dave Noble
In this post, we highlight a TINY part of a fantastic photographic essay of a recent hike across the Overland Track in Tasmania by Dave Noble (and party). The walk from Cradle Mountain to Lake St Clair covers about 85km of some spectacular wilderness in the heart of Tasmania. It is usually undertaken over five nights but in this case the trip was planned for 10 days to allow for side trips and photography.
The glow of a coal stove - Kia Ora Hut - The Overland Track - Dave Noble
Frank has enormous respect for Dave Noble who has been hiking in Tasmania (and many other places) since the early 1970's. He has achieved many feats that are the envy of less adventurous bushwalkers. These include extensive multi-day hikes in the South West National Park in Tasmania in the mid 1970's and then a multitude of fantastic trips in various places across Australia.
Close up with reflection - Overland Track - Dave Noble
We encourage you to visit Dave's site and read the full trip report and check out the terrific images of this winter hike: The Reserve in Winter - A Walk Along Tasmania's Overland Track - July 2009
Related Posts:
Overland Track - Winter in Tasmania - some lessons
The Overland Track eBook - information post
Overland Track eBook reviews
The Overland Track solo - Sue's trip report
Additional Information
Overland Track 2008 - Great trip report by Matthias
Bushwalk Tasmania - the resource for Tasmanian Bushwalking
All photographs are used with the kind permission of Dave Noble
South Coast Track - Tasmania - Solo winter trip report
Solo hiking in the Tasmanian Wilderness World Heritage area?
A fantastic mix of coastal and inland hiking over 85km (53 miles)
Wild oceans with the next land mass south the Antarctica?
Challenging bushwalking with harsh weather conditions, no huts, minimal infrastructure that requires experience and thorough planning?
If all (or some) of the above get you itching for a great adventure then read on.....
In this guest post, Larry Hamilton returns with a wonderful trip report following his recent completion of the South Coast Track in Tasmania's far south west.
View South Coast Track in a larger map
The following is Part One of Larry's South Coast Track trip report from Melaleuca to Louisa River.
Intentions
This walk was originally intended to be combined with the Port Davey Track and completed in 2008. Unfortunately last year I struck some unusually bad weather and took longer to do the Port Davey track than planned because I had to wait out bad weather and high stream levels. When I got to Melaleuca my resupply food wasn't waiting for me and took another three days to arrive. Prudence led me to cut my losses and fly out from Melaleuca rather than continue with no buffer of spare days for bad weather or high rivers. So the South Coast Track and the completion of my planned walk waited until this year when I managed to find another period of leave to do it.
My goal for this year was to do the South Coast Track in winter, allowing for sufficient food, fuel and time to accommodate the vagaries of the weather and flood levels. Accordingly I kept a period of three weeks available to undertake the walk had had my fingers crossed that the weather would not delay a Par Avion flight into Melaleuca longer than a week. I therefore planned to have available sufficient time, fuel and food for 14 days on the track, hoping of course to be able to complete it in shorter time.
In winter you don’t get long daylight hours and you have to be prepared to wait. I started the South Coast Track on 19 June when it doesn’t really get light enough to walk until 8 am and it is almost dark again at 5pm. I ended up going over the Ironbounds on the day after the winter solstice and took 8.5 hours but I started before dawn and walked into Little Deadman Bay in the dusk. Short daylight hours are I think the biggest limitation in winter walking, much more so than is the weather.
I'd planned to be very flexible with my itinerary and looked forward to taking some side trips. I particularly wanted to get into Louisa Bay as I'd read that this is a pretty spot. As it happened though, the good weather enticed me to get past the problem rivers while the water was low so in the end I didn't take any side trips and instead took rest days and poked around the main campsites along the track.
Trip Report
The weather was kind to me approaching the date of my leave and my booking with Par Avion for an 18 June fly out wasn't delayed. I flew into Melaleuca with five tourists doing a visit to Melaleuca combined with a trip out on Bathurst Harbour with the Par Avion pilot. I decided to go out onto Bathurst Harbour with them, stay at Melaleuca for the night and begin the South Coast Track the following day.
Day One 19 June
Towards Point Eric
Despite having some overnight rain the day dawned clear and cold and I had a beautiful day walking in to Freney Lagoon. I was at the beach early and had lunch at Point Eric. Because of the time I decided to push on to Buoy Creek, arrived there early in the afternoon and whiled away the afternoon sitting in the sun, eating scroggin and drinking cups of tea. I had knee deep water in rounding Black Cliff even though it was just past low tide but that was the only tricky spot for the day. An easy and enjoyable day!
Looking back towards Point Eric
Day Two 20 June
Another clear and cold day with lots of dew. It was quite muddy going up alongside Buoy Creek across the buttongrass plain and I slipped and fell a couple of times. In one fall the branches of a bush flicked my glasses off and despite some earnest efforts and about half an hour looking I couldn't find them. It didn't help that the frames were a similar colour to the buttongrass stems and that I my acuity wasn't flash without my glasses so I ended up giving up without finding them. I always carry a spare pair of reading glasses but would have to manage without glasses for distance work for the rest of the trip. I've got quite severe astigmatism and while I can cope without glasses, my capacity to deal with detail is significantly reduced. I found it interesting that I coped well without glasses when the light was good but in dim light I found myself peering myopically at the track. So at each end of the day and under heavy tree cover particularly when it was cloudy, I suffered a bit.
Buoy Creek campsite
The Red Point Hills were the first ascent of the trip. Foolishly I tried to take these quickly and ended up suffering as a result. My preparation for the trip was interfered with by a busy work schedule and too much work travel which cut into my training. When I started panting on the way up Red Point Hills I worried a bit as the 200 metre ascent was tiny compared to what was ahead. My concern was unnecessary as it turned out as I quickly got my second wind and got into a groove with climbing at a more sensible pace. The view from the top and the desire to linger and enjoy it helped as well.
Looking back towards Buoy Creek from Red Point Hills
The day was a significant one as three potential delay points (Faraway Creek, Louisa Creek and Louisa River) were passed without incident as the water was low and the crossings trouble-free. I was both surprised and impressed by the extensive boardwalk that had been installed over the wet buttongrass plain approaching Louisa River. Along the way there were many packs of boards that had been airlifted in and were awaiting a construction effort. It would have been a very muddy and damp section without the work already done and the upgrading of the track is going to be pretty extensive.
I found this a fairly tiring day, probably because it was the second day of the walk which I always find the toughest and the first day with vertical ascents and mud. Because of this I was pleased to get into the campsite at Louisa River. During the day the wind had picked up and some gusts were quite strong. I kept eying off the dead branches of the forest trees I was camping under and was careful to pick a site that was not just level and dry but without branches likely to come off in a high wind.
Louisa River Crossing
Just on dusk I surprised a young Eastern Quoll determined to investigate my tent. I had to work hard to discourage his interest. Because of his determination to check out my food supplies, I was a bit anxious about him returning and damaging my gear in his enthusiasm to get at my scroggin supplies. Despite my worries and some careful listening in the dark I don't think he returned. Maybe my snoring scared him off.
Day Three 21 June
I decided to have a relaxing day poking around Louisa River, partly because the forecast was for strong winds and some rain but also so that I would be rested for the anticipated long day over the Ironbounds. John Chapman had provided me with the locations of the interim campsites on the Ironbounds so I was prepared to make the trip over the Ironbounds a two-day trip but for obvious reasons I wanted to do it in one day. As a result I had a rest day on the winter solstice and used my little radio to listen in to the broadcast football matches.
Related Posts
Larry's Port Davey Trip Report- great reading
Gear List for Wilderness Bushwalking Trip - Larry Hamilton's excellent gear list
Stuck between Louisa and Faraway Creeks - Our adventure on the South Coast Track
Hiking the South Coast Track - our first (and last time)
Bibbulmun Track - Planning
The Bibbulmun Track is one of the world's great long distance walk trails, stretching nearly 1000kms from Kalamunda, a suburb in the hills on the outskirts of Perth, to the historic town of Albany on the south coast of Australia.
In this post, our "End to Ender" Dave Tomlinson, shares his experience on planning, equipment, food, shelter, clothing, cooking and navigation.
There is some great information in this post to assist anyone planning all or part of the Bibbulman Track - something we would love to undertake in the future.
Shelter
The Bibbulmun Track has wooden shelters generally spaced between 13km and 24km apart. The average distance would be about 18km, although in the Kalamunda National Park they are only about 10km apart. I recommend passing through every second one in that section.
Inside the Waalegh shelter - great facilities
At the time of year I completed the track I had 80% of the campsites totally to myself. So there was no need to carry a tent and I appreciated not having the extra weight. I could assure anyone walking in summer that you'd always find accommodation in the shelters. However, the most popular period for hiking is in spring time when the wildflowers are out. Based on what I read in some of the logbooks, I couldn't give the same assurance during this season.
The Waalegh shelter - water tank and fireplace
The facilities of the track are world class and very well maintained. I often thought of the wooden shelters as large 'bus stops', with three sides that always offered protection from the prevailing winds. There was a difference between the shelters in the northern half and those in the south. Those in the north had a picnic table in the middle and hardboard bunks on either side. In the south the sleeping platform extended around two walls in a large L shape with the picnic table in the remaining space. Both would be able to sleep a maximum of 16 people.
The campsites were generally in a very pleasant location and well landscaped. Apart from the shelter and picnic table, there was a pit toilet that often had toilet paper. There was a large rainwater tank beside the shelter and this is checked by park staff through the dry season to ensure there is always an adequate supply. There was always a fireplace that can usually be used for cooking but I respected the summer fire ban and used my camp stove instead. Most sites also had a second picnic table outside the shelter.
The one campsite which was different from the others was Mount Wells. This was fully enclosed hut because it's in an exposed and often windy location. You feel a bit like Scott in the Antarctic staying there but as the wind whistles around outside you appreciate having the four walls and it's a nice view when you awake in the morning.
Stove
My camp stove is a simple arrangement that folds up into a small pouch. It uses the butane gas canisters that have a threaded attachment to the stove. I found, on average, that one standard size canister would last about a week and they were easily found at every town along the track. There was one occasion when I ran out of gas and had to (very carefully) break the fire ban to cook.
The offending fireplace...
Clothing
Again, this depends largely on the time of year. I walked during February and March which is the warmest time of the year in Western Australia. So, I usually only needed t-shirt and shorts when I was hiking during the day. Sometimes I'd use a light windbreaker along the southern coast but it was never cold. It was sometimes cool in the evenings so I put on a sweater and long pants. Altogether, I only had about four days of rain in seven weeks but appreciated having my Goretex jacket when it did.
One of the most important recommendations I could make about clothing relates to your feet. They are what will carry you each day and you must look after them. Firstly, ensure your boots are well broken in and comfortable. Secondly, wear two pairs of socks and always carry at least one other pair. Wearing a thin pair of socks under your hiking socks will help prevent blisters. Also, ensure that your toenails are always cut short, especially in sections that involve hills.
Sleeping Bag
My sleeping bag is rated 5ºC and this was adequate…just! There were some nights, especially in the southern section, where I needed my warm clothing inside my bag at night. Obviously, the rating of your sleeping bag will depend on the season you are walking but I'd make a simple recommendation: go 5ºC below what you think you'll require. A bag with a hood is best, especially in the colder conditions.
Other equipment
Apart from my clothing, sleeping bag and cooking equipment, there were a number of other important items that should be taken. If you are hiking in summer then ensure you have good supplies of sun cream and insect repellent. A basic kit and first aid knowledge are essential, especially if you are hiking alone. Know what to do if you get a snake bite.
I had a headlight and very small torch as a back up. If you enjoy the camp logbooks as I did, there is usually plenty of reading at each site but I recommend taking a book and also a journal. In such tranquility, I enjoyed writing about my thoughts and experiences each day. I also recommend taking an MP3 player. Listening to some music for half an hour is always a pleasant way to end the day. The one thing that I wish I hadn't taken is my deodorant. I meant well but really…who needs it out there?
A couple of things I did find very useful were an inflatable pillow and a net you can wear on your head to keep flies and mosquitoes away. I didn't need the latter too often but really I valued it sometimes. I found my pair of gaiters to be useful in the southern sections that involved walking though sand dunes. Never forget your sunhat, especially in summer and I recommend carrying a beanie at any time of the year.
Food
Food, glorious food. In planning any hiking trip, this is undoubtedly one of the first considerations. Between Kalamunda and Albany, the Bibbulmun Track goes through a total of seven towns, past a roadhouse and a camping ground. So, you always need to be supplied for between three and ten days along the way.
Mushrooms along the Track - don't think this one is edible
The longest leg is the first from Kalamunda to Dwellingup. This is ten days, although you do reach the roadhouse at North Bannister after a week. Apart from a good takeaway meal, an ice cream and some snack food, don't count on being able to re-supply here. The other option is to hide a food drop here for the three days through to Dwellingup.
Each of the other towns has either a general store or even small supermarket where you can get the food you require and also a new canister of cooking gas. If you need to buy any new clothing items (I wore out a pair of socks), Collie, Pemberton, Walpole and Denmark all have a reasonable range. I also recommend the bakeries in these towns, although the one in Collie does close early on some days.
There is also a small store in the settlement of Donnelly River that stocks some hiking food. There isn't a great variety but you'll certainly find enough to get you through to Pemberton. Peaceful Bay has a general store at the caravan park which was well stocked when I was there. However, this is a seasonal place and wouldn't have the same choice at other times of the year. I suggest checking in Walpole if you're unsure.
Youth Hostel at Walpole - Dave was very impressed with all the "locals" he met along the TrackPersonally, I like to carry at least a small quantity of fresh food. This was usually in the form of a cucumber and a few apples, tomatoes and carrots. I recommend carrying fresh food, cheese and salami in a small cooler bag, especially in warmer weather. This will help it stay fresh and protect it from getting squashed in your pack.
Ensure that you have a large plastic bottle (at least 1.5 litre) with you. This will carry your water while you're hiking but I also used it to have a bath at each campsite. Remember that water is heavy so don't carry more than you need to each day. Consider the weather conditions, distance and whether you will be passing a campsite along the way. I usually arrived at my destination camp each day with about 100ml of water. This small amount was kept in case anything unforeseen happened.
Camera
As with all of my trips, I had my digital camera with me. Although it's a little more bulky than most, it does have 6x optical zoom. Compared to the 3x zoom of many cameras, this is often very handy. To conserve batteries, I removed them from the camera each night and replaced them again in the morning. I was able to recharge them at each place I stayed at along the way. Always carry a spare set though because there is nothing more frustrating than not being able to capture that beautiful scene because of dead camera batteries!
I always carry my camera on the front supporting strap of my pack. That way it's always easily accessible without having to stop. I always ensure it's kept dry and away from sand and dust as much as possible. It's a good idea to have a second data card and always ensure you have enough space on it for the photos that you're likely to take.
Navigation
There is no need for a detailed topographical map or GPS unit. The track is very well marked along its entire length and any navigational errors were simply due to my own inattention at vital moments. Keep watching for those yellow triangle track markers! It's not essential, but I recommend a small guide book or at least some notes from the internet as a reference for the terrain and any particular things of interest along the way.
Related Posts:
Bibbulmun Track - Part One - A very long hike
The Official Site:
Bibbulmun Track - Trip Planning
Many thanks to Dave Tomlinson for his fantastic words and pictures for this post.
Don't forget to check out his other posts on the Great South West Walk, another long distance hike on the other side of Australia.
GSWW - Section 1 - The Cobboboonee Forest
Cradle Mountain adventure - a short story
Adventure around Cradle Mountain?
Fact or fiction?
A day hike around Cradle Mountain with a twist (or two)?
Then this story is for you!
Frank stumbled across a very enjoyable blog today titled American in Oz. He reads a lot of blog posts about Tasmania and especially the Cradle Mountain area in Australia's most southern state, Tasmania. These post are a great source of inspiration and fun when he is stuck in his "real life".
This post , Tracks Less Travelled, a Tasmanian short story , really got his attention and the beautiful word craft and surprises in the story had him captivated.
Another fantastic image by Tasadam, Definitive Cradle Mountain - This picture is from a set titled The Overland Track - Tasmania - well worth a look at all his great photographs.
The following are some exerts from the story by annielaural:
" At the same time that she was fearful of stepping off the planked trail, she wished she had the courage to head off cross-country, to snake up the face of Marian’s Lookout, to beat Chris to the top. The competition between them never failed to engage her "
" Nueva’s was far more moderate in grade, longer with twelve hundred year old King Billy and Pencil Pines growing close to the water. Pandani towered over her head in the protection of the Ballroom Forest and Cutting Grass and Sassafras, growing far too close to the track, waited to wound. Daydreaming here was out of the question."
" It was still early afternoon. She had three more hours of daylight. A night in the dark on the trail was not appealing. She had plenty of clothes if she kept moving, but she didn’t have enough cold weather gear to spend the night out here, especially if it rained, and it was bound to rain as the temperatures cooled down "
To read the whole story (and it is a lot different to what you would normally read here), go to the full post on "American in Oz" , Tracks Less Travelled - a Tasmanian short story
We hope you enjoy it.
Related Posts:
The Overland Track - Planning the walk from Overseas
Hiking the Overland Track - a view from the States
Cradle Mountain local walk and Cradle Mountain Lodge
